#22: The Almost 8h Session

The only photo I managed to take...someone found a few old sex mags in the bushes. Yuck. Sunday was 100% surf porn! :)
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Gas stove meal, beer and talk was Saturday night ordeal. Sunday morning was supposed to be good, but raising my head from my bed in the car I saw it was flat. This is one of the best things of sleeping in the car right on the surf spot. It takes minimal effort to decide weather you should get up or you can continue sleeping. Trying to continue sleeping was impossible though. With Luggy and Mahi getting up at 6:20 and loudly trying to decide if they should go and get some coffee in the local joint. Finally after too much noise they left:). Yawn. Zzzz…

Waves picked up and around 9:30 we were in the water, 3h session. Fun. Eat, sleep, repeat. 15:30 I was back in. Waves were bigger but the wind started to pick up. I was just thinking if I should go out and wait a little bit when suddenly it stopped. Waves were glassier and glassier and with no wind they picked up even more. I was into my 6th hour of surfing and was paddling on automatic. I had like 15 just one more waves and finally made it out after 7 and a half hours before it got completely dark. Epic shit! Driving home I felt like I was drunk. I was so surfed out and tired I could not sleep (!?), instead I did 360’s in my bed sweating so next morning felt even worse – tired AND sleepy. Off to work. Let’s do it again:)!

NOA, 2.4.2017

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