I arrived at the spot late in the afternoon hoping for some tiny surf before it got completely dark. Waves were picking up very very slowly and maybe I could catch 3 set waves in the last 45 minutes before dark, but waiting 15min for a shitty wave just to get my surf day count up didn’t sound that inviting so I skipped it. After all, plans had to be made for the following day, because the forecast looked really promising. Even though, we never had big waves and this kind of wind. After lots of thinking and analyzing different forecasts this was the plan.
The Plan
Sleep a little longer so you are well rested. Eat. Then do a short session in big waves in the morning when there will still be wind. Go out and rest until the wind dies down. Then go all in for the main surf session. Ok? Ok!
The Execution
I woke up around 7:30, looked out the window…:”AAAAaaa…THERE ARE THREE PEOPLE IN THE WATER ALREADY, FOMOOO!!!”. I put on my wetsuit and ran into the water, surfed from 8:00 until noon, had a pasta break and surfed from 13-16:00. Now I can not move.
Around 16:00 I could barely lift my arms, waves were getting smallish but on the other hand, if I would have just arrived from back home, drove down the dirt road to the sea and saw these 4pm waves I would say: “This is fckng sick!” and would run in as fast as I possibly could. So yeah, it was still good. A day to remember.
NOA, 20.4.2022