When the surf forecast shows waves less than 1m high it’s hard to get excited. The last run of the model bumped up the predicted wave height to 1.1m. Hm..okay. And since it was Sunday and nothing to do anyway with bad weather and all and no hustle with going early from work etc… we drove south. Last two local surf trips were pretty awesome and the sea delivered, even more than the forecasts promised. So I crossed my fingers and hoped that this time it will be the same.
When we got down to the usual spot it was a bit bigger. With only light onshore wind we wasted no time and we went in. This is also when I took a few GoPro shots for the video above. Then with every set the waves got bigger. And after a while they were a solid 1.5m, probably even more on the bigger sets. The sea was still bumpy from the onshores. Then the wind stopped and it got good. After an hour or so the wind came back, but this time as light offshore! The bumpy sea turned to glass and then it got really good. The size was still there, the waves were glassy and we moved to the Jelly :) peak that was as good as it can get.
It’s crazy how nicely the waves break when the sea gets glassy. You are used to at least light onshore winds that make the sea bumpy and waves breaking all over the place with closeouts and mushy walls. You really have to look for that diamond in the rough. So you kind of assume that this is how this spot works. Until you see it working in glassy conditions. Yeah! We surfed and screamed how good it is for more than an hour. In the mean time we had heavy rain, sun and double rainbows.
Late afternoon that offshore wind got stronger and stronger. Looked weird seeing the huge spray flags behind the waves but soon it became unsurfable so we called it day. And what a day it was. Quite an upgrade from the mediocre 1m that was promised.
NOA, 11.10.2020