There were so many south wind sessions at the NOA spot recently that I had to think really hard to tell them apart. Even the best one melted into kind of a surfing February/March blur. I had to check the photos to stir the memory. Yeah, the wind died down around 11am following a heavy rainstorm. Earlier than forecasted. It took maybe an hour for the waves to really sort themselves out and turn clean and glassy and then it was game on. Best 2 hours of surfing this year, 8.6/10 score. Later the size dropped and mild wind messed it up a bit, but it was still super fun. Wind dropped completely around 10 pm which is early if you are planning for some leftover waves the next morning. I set the alarm clock to first light. That’s around 6am early March. The problem with sleeping in a van is that I park on the top of the field to avoid the muddy dirt road leading down to the spot and when the waves are small, it is hard to tell from up there if they are any good. So I waited for Luggy to wake up and tell me what’s up. My sneaky friend waited for him to put on his wetsuit before responding, so he beat me to the lineup and could enjoy 20 minutes of solo waves. Waves were completely clean and surprisingly still very nice on sets. Waist high +. But it wasn’t only the size, it was the way they were breaking. Usually they are steep at the takeoff and then you have some wall to do a good cutback, but then the wave flattens out. Not this time. Perfect peelers with room to do 3 – 4 turns. It was hard to bail the wave once it reached dry rocks as it still looked super fun with clean green wall. I still don’t know how I avoided any ding. After 2 hours the waves dropped and it was time to call it a day.
NOA 14., 15.3.2025