A series of small or underperforming swells. It seems like its payback time for the strange huge waves we got in the middle of the summer.
25.11. It started with an evening session at the usual spot. One forecast promised 1.5m waves growing into the night, the second one just waves up to 0.9m and the declining even before it gets dark. Guess which one was right? What we got is a super small but completely glassy surf. It was cold, dark, with occasional drizzle and long waits in between the sets. At the same time it was strangely beautiful to sit there with only 2 other surfers and not a soul in sight. Complete peace.
27.-28.11. What was building up to be one of the biggest west swells in recent times fizzled down to a good (but way to short) session on the Barbapapa. I mean, the session was not short at all. We surfed for almost 5 hours. But only the first hour it was really good, with sets breaking almost next to the pier and waves going all the way to the end of the bay. Then it got smaller and smaller. Evening session with a longer board and a nice sunset almost without wind was fun as well.
Sunday morning was a let down due to very high water. After lots of searching for the right spot while they wave were dying down we finally surfed a xxs secret spot Not that good.
1.-2.12. Hello December. Same spot as over the weekend. We thought it was going to get bigger before dark, but it didn’t. Still, all the cards were betting on the early morning next day. 1.5m+ without wind on the other side of the point. And it almost came true. It was maybe 1.2m on sets and completely glassy. I think the reason for smaller size was again very high water that was making the waves fat. It was hard to find a smackable wall. But still a really nice session with glassy waves and orange purple sunrise above the pine trees.