I didn’t feel like driving up and down the coast, from island to mainland and back so I gambled and went to the island on Saturday. The last forecast update was not inspiring, it dropped from multiple 1.5m columns to only one at 1.3m which in pretty much flat in island terms. Fuck it, I went in anyways. I paddled up and down the point in the small bay trying to find something breaking not directly on to the rocks and just when I thought it will be no waves session I found a spot. It was so bad I started counting waves. 3 waves make a session, so I need 3 waves I said to myself. After a while it got a bit better and I kept counting, this is what I got: 2 waves bodyboarding, to small to stand up, 14 waves riding sideways not doing anything that would disturb the glide, 2 waves big enough to pump up and down the wave. It’s a session.
Next day was in the epic range. The wind had a lot of east which means no wind over most of the main point. Size was there, on some sets even more than forecasted. And then the first wave. Oh man, that first wave was one of the best waves I have ever had here. I was alone in the water, Luggy was right behind me walking to the beach but then he suddenly disappeared. Windsurfers were still putting their equipment together. The set came, I was out of position for the first 3 waves and usually this is it. But there were like 5 or 6 waves in this set and every next one was better, cleaner and with a longer and steeper wall. I caught the last one and it was one of the longest rides here ever. But not only that, it was breaking perfectly. No sections breaking in front of you that you can not get around, no flat sections when you are just pumping and loosing height without really surfing, just endless wall evenly tapering towards the open sea ready to be carved into. Legs were burning and heart was racing when I got past the fence and the wave was going on and on. Damn, I need to start running. I fell after a few more turns and the wave went on without me. Damn. Walking back I met Luggy who dropped his car keys somewhere behind the tire. Helped him get them out and then we surfed for like 5 more hours until I couldn’t more any more. Lots of sick waves, but none like that first one.
The Island, 3.-4.12.2022