Evening NG session was surprisingly good, I wasn’t sure if there would be any waves at all and then I could actually surf, do a couple of turns and mostly pump down the wall. Nice. Tomorrow is going to be E.P.I.C. I thought, because the forecast for the next morning promised waves two times bigger than this evening.
Well. Next morning was a disappointment. It was barely any bigger that the previous evening. So after a quick session on a new surf spot I drove further south. The south delivered the promised bump in the wave height in the afternoon. Not only that, it was bigger than expected. There should be waves up to 1.5m and there were sets noticeably higher than that. Wind didn’t mess too much with the waves because of the size which meant the session was good. Next morning could also be okayish with the swell leftovers and no wind.
Well. Next morning was super small. I fumbled around the van waiting for news from Barba, but got tired of it and decided to drive there. As soon as I made first kilometer out of the muddy dirt road the news came. Flat. There was a chance that it would get bigger during the day, but I realized that I was driving away from small waves towards flat sea, so I turned around for a short NOA session. More of the same bumpy muddy dirt road in the opposite direction and then small waves, pump down the line wall and I think I made one turn before the west wind kicked in. After a while it kicked in even more and Barba started to look promising. So we called it a day here and drove to the west coast. The point there was like separating two different worlds. North side was cold in the shade of the trees, super windy and with small blown out waves. South side of the point it was like stepping into Summer. Hot sun, no wind and clean small waves breaking in the middle of the bay. It didn’t get big like it should so I was thinking…make a quick surf here as well, before the waves disappear and I will eat my breakfast later.
Well. The quick before waves disappear session lasted 3 hours because waves even picked up a little. It was 2pm when I was to hungry to continue so I went out and made myself a breakfast. Soon others joined me in the sun in front of the van and it was so hot in late September sun that I had to extend the awning haha. I never use it. Good times.
NG + secret spot, 26.9., 27.9.
NOA 27.9., 28.9.
Barba 28.9.2024