It was just another not very impressive surf forecast in a long line of not very impressive forecast in the past months. As much as I love summer and don’t like the cold, I can’t wait for the real surf season to start in out local pond. But at the same time the forecast wasn’t sketchy. You know, not one of those “I want the waves to be there because it was flat for too long so I am going no matter what” forecasts. That can also be flat. Translating this to regular peoples language, waves somewhere around 1.2m. So we packed our boards and headed south. It is usually not a good sign when the clouds disappear and sky turns blue once you reach the coast. South wind means waves, clouds and rain, not waves and blue bird conditions. Just before the doubt started to creep in we got photo confirmation from Dejc that the waves are indeed breaking. Yeah, sunny autumn sessions! When we reached the spot things looked almost perfect (on a windswell surfing scale haha), waves were bigger that the forecast promised, it was sunny, wind was not too strong. But as it turns out not all that glitters is gold. I had a few super fun rides but nice walls were really hard to find, wind was getting stronger and lines went to shit.
NOA, 3.3h session, 9.10.2019