#10: “Big” Day That Should Be Bigger

A solid forecast for the 20km spot. Seen bigger, but not very often. At least not at times I was free to drive south. So we packed our fat boards AND our regular fat shortboards. Driving over the bridge was pretty insane. The sea was going nutr with wind produced cloud of sea droplets floating over the sea surface in every possible direction as the north wind blasted the sea with such power there were waves under the bridge that is maybe at most 1km long. It was quite a sight.

Interestingly driving over the bridge was easy, but on the other side there were two small trucks stopped at the first quater of the way dangerously tilting sideways. So expectations were high. If this wind was directed at the spot it would be probably impossible to surf. You can actually suffocate from the water in the air. But it would be a sight to se how big can the bay get. To our surprise when we arrived Luggy and Bosti were already in the water and the sea looked almost flat with just easy to moderate wind.

Strong wind

 

Still we suited up and hit the 9C water and 1.5C air. But soon real fun sized sets started rolling in. Fun drops and nice walls. A sick day. It’s funny that with temperatures like these you get colder in 5min changing by the car than in 2h surfing.

 

20 km spot, 25.1.2019

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