First day I arrived at the spot late in the afternoon. Waves were already big, just as big as this spot can handle before it becomes unsurfable. Fortunately there were some lulls in between sets and if you timed your entry right it was easy. What wasnt easy was paddling back through million lines of foam if you surfed a wave to far to the inside. These short period swells, when they get big, it’s really hard to paddle back out. The whitewater lines are so close to one another that there is literally no time to paddle in between duckdives. So you are just duckdiving and squeezing in a paddle or two every 3 duckdives. Not great progress. You can only get out once there is a pause in the waves. So I picked the bigger outside waves and surfed them half way before kicking out to avoid the long paddle. Still it was a battle. The lines were big and unusually long. Long walls instead of peaks. So lots of closeout and lots of being in the wrong spot for takeoff and clean wave. But on the other hand, size here is always fun.
Next day, there were sizeable leftovers from the swell, the wind died down during the night, but not completely. There was a slight side shore in the morning, so the waves weren’t completely clean. Lots of people saw the promising forecast so after quite a few lonely sessions, it was a bit crowded. But crowds cleared once most of them got their morning surf fix and the second half of my 5 hour session was really nice. The wind died down completely in the afternoon and nice smaller lines were still coming in. Even sun was out for a while. It looked really inviting, but after 5 hours of surfing I slowly packed my things and drove home.
NOA 27.-28.2.2024