The season has started and it was almost with a bang. Four days of surfing and as I am writing this I could be surfing for the fifth day. We were just randomly checking the webcams and there is a surfprise west coast session going on right now. It started with an “almost” session on thursday on the 20 km spot. It was partly glassy, it was okayish size, it was just missing an extra 20 cm to be really breaking like it can. Still a fun afternoon ruined only ba numerous roadworks on the way south and Luggys slow driving due to the car insurance app that rates your driving and gives your insurance discount. Who turns it on when you are driving to surf!? Next day way Sunday and the forecast undershooted. I rated the day 3/10. And it was sunny!? It’s usually sunny when you surf the 20km spot but almost never on NOA. South wind means clouds and rain, but this Sunday it way sunny.
Had to go back home to work and next day (Monday) I was back. It was slightly bigger, I rated the day 4/10 and it was again…. sunny?! Again I had to go home after the session and go to work the next day. As soon as I finished work I was again driving south to the same spot. And again it was sunny!? And I am talking blue bird sky sunny. Not a cloud above us sunny. People red in the face sunny. And the waves? Really nice size, no wind, almost perfect. The only problem was that a lot of waves broke kind of funny, not as perfect as they can when there is no wind. So 7/10. With the sun and everything I could give it a 9, but it’s the beginning of the season and as all good WSL judges you have to be conservative with the scores at the beginning. Who knows what is still to come.
20km 30.9., NOA 3.,4.,5.10.2021