#21: Driving in our wetsuits

A short burst of energy. Around noon waves were still to small to go in, at least because the forecast promised bigger waves later on. Around 1:30pm we went in. Around 2:30pm it was already huge. Walls of water rolling down the point, it was hard to get a good one because when it gets big the take off spot shifts left and right a lot, depending on the wave size. But if you got the right one, oh man, 400m rides. Then in the evening huge rainfall came and when it passed, the wind was gone, like it never happened.

The island*, 10.3.2024

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