A couple of big days at the usual spot. First day the plan was to go to the island. But the more I checked the forecast, the more it looks like it would be impossible to get home in the evening after the session. The strongest wind and biggest waves were forecasted for the time of the last few ferries off the island. So we went to the usual spot. It was almost flat when it should be 1.5m and only a few hours later it was maxing out at 3m. Somewhere in the middle it was really good, at the end it was more about surfvival, the paddle back to the lineup after a wave was a killer. So much water moving and so much whitewater, no time to paddle between sets… crazy. You know when you finish the wave and start to paddle back. And there is another surfer just a few meters in front of you. And then every wave that comes breaks in a way that the other surfer just barely makes it over it and the wave then detonates just in front of you sending you back towards the shore. After a few minutes the other surfer is comfortably sitting in the lineup while you are still in the same spot in the middle of whitewater slowly starting to say the bad words not only in your mind but also outloud. Haha. The pinnacle of humiliation is when the other surfer rides another wave and is again already in the lineup before you paddle out.
Next surf day looked big as well, but the closer it got the smaller the forecast looked. I mean smaller by winter standards which is solid 1.5m instead of solid 2m. But the waves it seemed didn’t get the memo that they should drop. It was again quite big.
Last surf day was on the 20km spot. It looked like it will be a slam dunk, but the webcam looked weird. It turned out that there was too much wind for the waves to really shine:). The sets were fun though. And the water color. Yes, this water color:
1. 11. NOA big day, 3.11. NOA big day, 6.11. 20 km spot