I am not sure if I ever mentioned this, I bet I did. There is a certain wave height wind strength combo where the surf is still ok. The bigger the waves, the more wind they can survive without becoming completely blown out and shit. If the wind gets stronger and the wave size stays the same, waves loose their walls, they start breaking all over, closing out, become just shifting peaks that break now left now right, now more to the outside, now more to the inside and after they break they disappear into the blown out sea surface so after you make the drop there is nothing there to surf… Conditions like this are a pain in the ass to surf. Anyway, when we came down to the beach the wind was hard. So hard the sea was full of foam. There were only 2 hours of light left so I didn’t wait for the wind to die down but went straight in. It was surprisingly good. The size of the waves was big enough the even with strong wind the set waves were breaking ok. I had an ok session for a good hour, then the wave size started dropping but the wind didn’t follow. So ok session started to turn into what I would call, if I was Chinese, a session of one thousand splashes. There were “fake” waves breaking all over the place. I had to constantly paddle over something that looked like a wave just so the lip broke and hit me straight in the face while I was paddling over and then the fake wave dissipated back into the sea surface without anything to surf. Caught a few more and then I had enough.
NOA, 10.10.2024