#18: Warm Sunny Surf That Almost Didn’t Happen

The forecast knows how to play with our emotions but after years of ups and downs it is easier to accept that a few days of 2.5m forecast can turn into unsurfable 0.5m in the last few days before the waves arrive. And this is exactly how it went. With one exception. When the last two days the forecast promised only 0.5m waves I decided to skip it. Meetings at work, car at the repair shop and other everyday surf obstacles made the trip down south too much of a hustle for 0.5m waves. Especially because of the 1m rule. If it’s less than 1m then you might even not surf. But a photo taken by Miha around 14:00 changed everything. There were fun sized sets rolling in, I could even say they were 1.5m sets. Wth?!

Quick snap before going in.

Change of plans, pitstop at home to pick up my surfboard and wetsuit and 2 and a half hours later, ta 6pm I was on the beach. Warm sunny day, blue skies, warm water (20C) and fun waves, smaller that in the photo but still very surfable. Surfed until it got dark and when the wind died down it got better and better.

NOA, 24.5.2022

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