Every now and then everything aligns and you get one of the best sessions of all times on a spot that is arguably not even a spot. The forecast was somewhere between the usual south wind spot and the west coast. I’m not completely sure why, but most of the people…ok, everybody except me and Bošti choose the usual spot. I arrived and parked under the pine trees late in the evening. I was sure there would be plenty of people arriving a day early to be ready for the dawn patrol & session but there was no one. I was completely alone. It almost felt like something was wrong. Did the forecast change and I didn’t see it? A few moments later another car arrived. Bošti had kind of the same idea as me and we double checked the forecast before going to bed. It still looked the same.
We woke up early and checked the waves. It was fine, small clean lines were rolling into the bay, but the emphasis was on small. When a windswell surfer sees glassy waves with no wind he can not be too picky about the size. So we had coffee, suited up and went in. The water was super warm for September, the sun was slowly rising above the pine forest and we traded small clean waves maybe for an hour or so. You know how excitement over waves that are not that big slowly fades after you catch a few and soon the usual lineup talk begins:
“It’s really good, only if it would be maybe 0,25 of a meter bigger.”
“Yeah, at least if the bigger sets would be the average waves….”
“Yeah, or maybe another half a meter bigger…”
And it never happens. You know it’s not going to happen. It’s just talk. Until this this Thursday.
Suddenly a noticeably bigger wave rolled in. And then another. And another. And then a set arrived that caught us both out of position. Perfect glassy 1.5m wall rolled from the top of the point all the way to the beach. We were all over the next one and all the “I wish it was bigger” talk was gone. We just surfed, surfed, surfed as much as we could. We had maybe 2 hours of perfection. Then the wind slowly picked up, first at the top of the point and then further and further down into the bay. Kind of in sync with my arms hinting me that I should take a break after 4,5 hours of surfing. Like I said, sometimes everything aligns. When I got out of the water first people arrived. It was still really good, but only me and Bošti knew why we were smiling so hard. I took some photos later, but as usually with stories like these, they don’t do justice to the morning conditions.
Barba, 15.9.2022 9.6/10