Three days after the previous surf I was back on the usual spot. The forecast was big with strong wind so I was aiming to be there not at the peak of the swell but earlier, when there will be less wind. I arrived at noon and went straight in. Only car there, only surfer in the water. Waves were big, wind was strong, but there is a certain combination of wave size and wind strenght that is still very surfable. Smaller waves are destroyed by less wind, bigger waves can handle stronger winds. Something like that. It was “choose your waves carefully because the paddle back can be a bitch” kind of conditions.
I surfed for 2 or 2.5 hours and then the wind got even stronger. Slowly destroying the conditions and the wait for the ok wave was longer and longer. I surfed for another hour and then I had enough.
NOA, 24.10.2023