The Last Surf Report

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A short illustrated story about a four day wave chasing trip to the coast down south. Four days, four surf spots, four cars, nine friends, nineteen photos. It’s called the last report because…well…it’s the last one.

Snowy road with lots of trucks

So it begins, my trip down south. One hour delay thanks to my bad memory and some things I had to pick up back home. Finally on the highway and after 10min of driving – traffic jam. I was watching snowflakes fall for a good hour before we could move on. That’s 2h delay all together…

Wind and waves

First stop. Windy and lonely. I was so late I only had an hour and a half to surf. It has been a while since I was alone at this spot….I guess all the time wasting usual suspects were somewhere warm, somewhere snowy or busy.

Island ferry

Few hours later I was munching on some Gorgonzola pasta and waiting for my boat trip to begin. This whole big ship for just two cars, this is how owning a yacht feels like:)? Thoughts like these were quickly bumped out of my mind by a steel wall that crossed my path as soon as the waves started rocking…ouch.

A winding country road at night

The search is on. A long and winding road, you better be prepared for some car pushing.

A narrow winding path through the forest

This is a shortcut that leads to the surf spot. It also leads to some sheep and to “PRIVATE” sign. And to 1 hour of walking in circles through the jungle. I love shortcuts like that.

Waling on a rocky beach with some waves in the background.

Finally – the beach. All the walking through the mosquito infested swamp was forgotten as the mirage of waves appeared in the background.

Watching the surf

Hm…is that a wave? Let me adjust my binoculars…

waves breaking in the bay

…hm…it looks like a wave, it breaks like a wave, it sounds like a wave and it smells like seaweed. This must be it!

A muddy brown wave breaking.

This is where the smell comes from.

A frame wave

And this is where A-frames are born.

A right hand wave breaking.

A little something for our friends that prefer to put their left foot forward. And don’t mind getting smashed into the shallow rocks or constant paddling in the current.

A left hand wave with a surfer catching it.

And a little something for our friends that like to put their right foot forward. And don’t mind getting washed over the rocks, smashed into the reef, tearing their wetsuits, and having water pushed into their inner ear.

Surfer texting his girlfriend.

I managed to get the content of the text message that was written right after the session: “Hi babe! Dinged my board, got thrown into the rocks, torn my wetsuit, had a blast!”

Seaside town at night with a big yacht.

After the session and some local pizza time, another ferry, another surf spot… Now, all we have to do is find a tavern in which the captain is arrrrghhetting drunk.

Surfer checking out a wave.

Naaah. Cold, blown out and dangerous. Let’s go some place else?

A wave and a volcano.

Some place not so close to a smoking volcano?

Surfer in the water

When there are long lulls surfers find all sorts of things to amuse themselves with. Here is – can you touch the bottom test combined with – is my leash tied to my surfboard test and – where did these dings come from headache.

Surfer in the bushes.

These bushes are really dense. Someone carved out a cavern like space between them and laid the ground with rocks in a circular pattern. Stepping into the center of the rocks you are energized and ready for another 5 hour surf session. A sandwich, some chocolate, and warm tea also help.

Frozen tree branches surrounded by ice.

On the way home the countryside slowly started turning from normal to frozen scary fairy tale. Because of rain and freezing temperatures everything was covered with a thick layer of ice. Broken trees, broken utility poles, torn power lines, closed roads… mayhem.

 

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